The evolution of the swimsuit has extended from the use of woven, rigid fabrics cut in dressmaker-type styles to the almost universal use of fabrics having some type of stretch or elasticity. There are several different types of stretch fabrics being used by the swimwear industry today. These fabrics generally fall into the following classifications: a nylon/spandex combination in a tricot-type knit, a nylon/spandex combination in a raschel-type knit, a cotton/spandex combination, and a polyester/spandex combination. Each of these combinations and knits has specific applications and specific characteristics.
The nylon/spandex combination in a tricot construction generally includes 80% nylon and 20% spandex, usually LYCRA (a registered trademark of DuPont Corporation). This fabric is commonly used for its four-way stretchability, i.e. the ability to stretch in both the length and width directions of the fabric. The advantage of this type stretch is that it permits the garment to fit different shapes and sizes without substantial modification to the pattern of the garment.
The nylon/spandex combination in a raschel-type construction is characterized by a combination of 85% nylon and 15% spandex. The stretch is typically significantly greater in one direction than the stretch in the other. Raschel-type knitting provides a lighter weight and less costly fabric, as compared to the tricot type construction.
The cotton/lycra combination generally includes 90% cotton and 10% spandex. Also included within this classification is a poly/cotton/spandex mix made of 45% polyester, 45% cotton and 10% spandex. These type fabrics are often used for exercise wear, such as leotards and the like. The cotton is used for perspiration absorption. Also, the cotton within the blend provides a softer feel to the fabric.
The polyester/spandex combination is a lightweight and less expensive alternative to the nylon/spandex or cotton/spandex combinations. This fabric material is primarily used in the United States in children's swimwear.
There are many variations and blends of spandex for use in swimwear or the like. Spandex is generally defined as a synthetic elastomeric fiber having a very high elasticity to break point (up to approximately 500% to 600%) and a high recovery from stretching. Though the chemistry is very complex, basically spandex is a series of elastomeric products including hard and soft segments and cross linking between the same. The fibers produced are generally white, dyeable and are stronger and lighter than rubber. The properties of spandex include high stretch, low set (the ability to spring back to its original shape concluded after repeated stretching), high durability, easiness of cleaning, uniformity, versatility, and dyeability.
Women's swimsuits can be generally classified into two broad categories. The first category is the standard swimsuit which is typically made from either of the nylon/spandex knits discussed above. The second category is contemplated for figure control and typically includes an inner lining that is used to contain parts of the body and to provide camouflage. The outer shell of the figure control swimsuit may also be made of the nylon/spandex blend. Most of these swimsuits use an inner lining, either only in the front or in the front and back. The lining restricts the body parts while the outer shell provides the camouflage.